Category Archives: Blog

Rose Otto vs Rose Absolute

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This week I was asked whether it made a difference whether one used  ‘Rose Otto’ or ‘Rose Absolute’ as there is a significant price difference between the two with Rose Otto being considerably more expensive.

While I have a mini profile on Rose in the Articles Archives of the website, and also blogged about Rose in February 2009, I haven’t ever addressed this comparison specifically.

  1. The first difference is of course the way that the oil is extracted.  Rose Otto is obtained through steam distillation of Rose (Rosa damascena), while Rose Absolute is obtained through solvent extraction, a Rose Absolute is obtained via a multi-step process.
    1. Firstly the aromatic oils are ‘washed out’ of the flowers with a non-polar solvent such as hexane.
    2. Once the hexane has evaporated a waxy, semisolid substance ‘the concrete‘ is left.
    3. The concrete is then subjected to a number a series of “washings” with a polar solvent such as ethanol. The polarity of the ethanol will allow extraction of the volatile aromatics from the concrete while leaving behind the non-polar plant waxes which do not dissolved in the ethanol.
    4. Finally, the ethanol is evaporated to leave behind the Absolute which will typically have 1-5% ethanol remaining in it and sometimes a trace of hexane.
    5. A rose blossom contains only about 0.02% essential oil. On average Rosa damascena will yield 2.2 pounds of oil per 8,818 pounds of flowers. Solvent extraction gives a greater yield than distillation which is why Rose Absolute is less expensive than Rose essential oil. About 10 pounds of the concrete can be extracted from 10,000 pounds of rose petals. The concrete is further refined to produce rose absolute, the yield of which is about 67% from the concrete.
  2. The second difference is in the colour and aroma of the oils.
    1. Rose Otto is lighter in color and has a softer more refined aroma.
    2. Rose Absolute is a thick, reddish colored highly aromatic liquid.
    3. Absolutes often smell more like the original plant than an essential oil because the plant material has not been exposed to heat as well as solvent extraction process removes a wider range of aromatic molecules than does the distillation process.
    4. The key flavor compounds that contribute to the distinctive scent of rose oil are: beta-damascenone, beta-damascone, beta-ionone, and rose oxide. Beta-damascenone presence and quantity is considered as the marker for the quality of rose oil. Even though these compounds exist in less than 1% quantity of rose oil, they make up for slightly more than 90% of the odor content due to their low odor detection thresholds.
According to Guenther, The Essential Oils, Vol V:
Solvent extraction of Rose (Concrete and Absolute) are used to isolate more efficiently and completely the odorous components of the flower. In countries where the rose crop is small and would only deliver a small amount of oil via hydrodistillation, a larger amount of the absolute can be recovered using solvents. He also says that the volatile oil present in the concrete and absolute of rose probably contains the same constituents as the distilled oil of rose, but in different proportions.

 

Rose Absolute is the preferred choice for Perfumers.  If you are using the rose as a fragrance component, in distillation, sprays, diffusing or wash off products like soap, shampoo etc the Rose Absolute will give you more of the typical rose aroma the plant is so well known for.  On the other hand if you are using the oil topically on the body, especially in a leave on product, most aromatherapists choose to go with the option that has no possibility of solvent residue.

I almost forgot Valentine’s Day

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Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and I realize I haven’t given it any thought until just now!

What will I put together for my Valentine’s gifts this year?  I had a quick look back at past posts I’ve done for some inspiration: there is my post from February 2009 on Valentine’s Day and its blends for Sensuality and Aphrodite and February 2008 on the Origins of Valentine’s Day with its recipe for Chocolate Mint Truffles and Bay Rum Tonic.  Certainly possibilities for a quick gift as are  bath salts with a special customized blend.  If you are looking for ideas perhaps one or more of these will be helpful to you and there more in my little e-book Aromatic Gifts for all ages and for all seasons.

Once I’ve taken care of what I’m doing for everyone else, I decided to remember myself and my own spirit. It is so easy to get caught up in the hype of the romantic wave that surrounds February 14, but what about taking some time out to acknowledge and honour our own spirits, our own specialness, our own uniqueness.  This year I’m going to take the time to do this for myself. I’m creating a special blend for myself and I will add it to my bath salts for a lovely luxurious bathing ritual.  Candles, soft music and some pretty pink quartz will help to set the scene as I take a little time to just be and appreciate the essence of who I am!

If I could give you one gift, I would give you the ability to see yourself as I see you, so you could see how truly special you are.
– Author Unknown

Carrier Oil – Rose Hip Seed

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Having made the commitment to myself to blog about once a week, I find sometimes the ideas are right there.  Triggered perhaps by a question, or comment, from one of my students or client, or something seasonal or in the news, but at other times I find myself staring at a blank screen.  I was having a little trouble with inspiration this week until I was applying my body oil after my shower this morning and I realized that I have only blogged on a couple of carriers in the past and it was time to share some information on an oil that has contributed to my skin feeling so smooth and silky.  For the past three or four months I have been using a customized essential oil synergy in Rose Hip Seed and I am delighted with the results.

Rose Hip Seed Oil Rosa rubiginosa
Rose Hip seed oil is obtained from the rose hips of a wild rose that grows mainly in the Andes and the southern part of Chile.  The rose grows in thick spiny bushes and the red hips are displayed over winter.  The species rubiginose gets its name from the rust red autumn foliage displayed by the plant.  It is also known under the common names of Muscat Rose, Rosa Mesquite, Sweetbriar and Eglantine.

Len Price, in his book Carrier Oils for Aromatherapy and Massage  tells us that:

The seeds make up about 70% of the weight of the fruit and the oil is extracted from them.  The hips are first dried at temperatures that are kept below 80 degrees C in order to avoid possible degradation, then they are split in order to obtain the seeds.  The seeds are then broken down in a grinding process and a golden reddish oil is obtained.  In Chile the oil is obtained through simply cold expression.  Crude rose hip seed oil can also be produced by solvent extraction (hexane) which can then be further refined to obtain a oil with an extended shelf life.  So there are two qualities of oil available, one that is unrefined and obtained through cold expression and the other which is refined and may have been subjected to temperatures up to 250 degrees C.

Jan Kusmirek, in his book Liquid Sunshine, Vegetable Oils for Aromatherapy  tells us that:

Clinical trials carried out on Rose Hip Seed oil have shown that it contains essential nutrients which make it an exceptionally active product in the field of tissue regeneration, thus improving skin texture and reducing scars and skin discolouration. It is the single most effective oil for use as an anti-scarring agent for all types: refractile, hypertrophic, hyperchromic and even against cheloid or aged hardened scar tissue.  It is excellent for serious friction burns.  For such work it needs to be applied daily over time.  It can be applied directly on the body or in formulation for the treatment of surgical scars, burns and marks. … It is also one of the best anti-wrinkle oils.  It is incorporated into cosmetic products for smoothing out facial lines and wrinkles, slowing down skin aging process, moisturizing and hydrating.

I find that rose hip seed oil absorbs into the skin really easily and doesn’t leave it feeling greasy at all.  It can be used at a ratio of 10 – 50% with another carrier, however I use it at its full 100% strength and my skin is loving it and the essential oils I have diluted in it.  Rose Hip Seed oil, particularly the cold expressed version can go rancid fairly quickly, so proper storage is important, and I prefer to purchase smaller quantities that I can use up quicker.  The refined oil has a much better shelf life.